How To Insulate Over a Pipe Union Connector

If you are reading this short blog post, you already understand the importance of pipe insulation.  We get many customers who send us thank you emails and photos of their finished insulation projects.  One common occurrence is that many of these photos show pipe insulation and PVC fitting covers everywhere and then a single pipe union or valve with no insulation.  This post will help explain the ways to fix these issues regarding that single or sometimes multiple Pipe Union connectors:

A pipe union (shown above) is used to connect piping with the use of a large nut that threads over the pipe connection.  This large nut is a problem when using 1/2" or 1" thick pipe insulation due to the outside diameter (OD) of the nut being as wide or wider than the OD of the pipe insulation.  We find that many times pipe insulation is only installed up the the pipe union only which leaves the union uninsulated. This is obviously not an efficient insulation system.

CARVE OUT METHOD:
When using thicker pipe insulation (1-1/2" or 2" thick), the installer can simply carve out some of the insulation on the inside of the pipe insulation to accommodate the raised union nut.
First you must determine if the OD of your pipe insulation is greater than OD of the union nut.  You want to have around a 2" greater OD than the union nut this way you will still have 1" of insulation around the nut on all sides.  Find out where the pipe union will fall on your piece of fiberglass pipe insulation.  Open up the pipe insulation so you have two C's (halves of pipe insulation) hinged before you.  Make two cuts into the insulation on both of the C's.  These cuts should represent the width of the union.  Pinch the fiberglass and peel out a layer of fiberglass (similar to peeling off a layer of onion).  Simply pop the piece of pipe insulation onto the pipe with the carve out falling onto the union nut.
PVC UNION COVER:
A PVC Union Cover (shown below) is used to easily insulate over a pipe union while leaving a clean look to the finished pipe insulation system.  The PVC Union Covers are low profile which mean they are sized accurately to only raise above the OD of the pipe insulation as little as necessary.  The PVC Union Covers will cover up to an approximate 1" raise off of the piping (2" OD larger than the pipe insulation OD).  These covers come with a rectangle fiberglass insert which is first wrapped around the union itself and the PVC cover is installed over the fiberglass.  The PVC Union cover is a 2 piece fitting which means that it comes in two halves.  The two halves are installed with either King Tacks (on hot system) or PVC Vinyl tape (cold systems).

How to Install Our PVC Union Cover

The image above shows how many pipe unions are left exposed even after pipe insulation is installed.  The exposed pipe fitting will radiate heat loss and negatively affect the efficiency of the pipe insulation system.

Our PVC Union Cover comes with a fiberglass insert wrap that is used to fully insulate the pipe union.  Simply wrap the fiberglass around the union making sure all parts are sufficiently covered by fiberglass.

Finished wrapping the fiberglass insert around the union.  As you can see there should be no gaps between the fiberglass insert and the adjacent pipe insulation.

Half of the PVC Union Cover is placed over the fiberglass wrap.  Each PVC Union Cover is sized to perfectly sit on top of the outside of the fiberglass pipe insulation.

Both halves of the PVC Union Cover are installed.  On hot systems, King Tacks should be used to connect the two halves of the cover.  The serrated tack is pushed into the 4 spots where the two halves overlap.  On cold systems, use of PVC Vinyl tape should be used for proper closure.

Fiberglass Pipe Insulation Carve Out Guide

CARVE OUT METHOD:
When using thicker pipe insulation (1-1/2" or 2" thick), the installer can simply carve out some of the insulation on the inside of the pipe insulation to accommodate the raised union nut.
First you must determine if the OD of your pipe insulation is greater than OD of the union nut. You want to have around a 2" greater OD than the union nut this way you will still have 1" of insulation around the nut on all sides. Find out where the pipe union will fall on your piece of fiberglass pipe insulation. Open up the pipe insulation so you have two C's (halves of pipe insulation) hinged before you. Make two cuts into the insulation on both of the C's. These cuts should represent the width of the union. Pinch the fiberglass and peel out a layer of fiberglass (similar to peeling off a layer of onion). Simply pop the piece of pipe insulation onto the pipe with the carve out falling onto the union nut.
STEP 1:  Find out where the pipe union fitting will fall on the piece of fiberglass pipe insulation.  Open up the piece of pipe insulation and make a notch with a sharp knife on both sides of the pipe insulation as shown in the next two photos.


STEP 2:  Place the piece of fiberglass pipe insulation on a table or on the top of a box (in the field).  Open the pipe insulation all the way so you have two halves of the pipe insulation facing you (two C's).

STEP 3: Find the notches you marked previously in step 1 and cut slices into the into the pipe insulation.  Make the slices only as deep as necessary, make sure not to cut through the ASJ jacketing.  Make the same cuts on the second halve as well.


STEP 4:  Take your knife and thumb and pinch the amount of fiberglass you want to notch out.  Slowly pull the insulation out



STEP 5: Line the carved out section of the fiberglass pipe insulation onto the pipe union and install as normal.  The notch out for the union will allow the piece of pipe insulation to close fully.  If it will not close fully, redo steps 3 and 4 and take out some more of the insulation.


If you find that the pipe insulation you are using is not thick enough for the carve out method listed above, look into either stepping up to a thicker insulation for these raised Unions.  You can cut the thicker pipe insulation into a smaller piece and step the insulation up to the thicker insulation and carve out that piece.  You can tape or paint with CP-11 the exposed fiberglass edges on the step up.
You can also use a PVC Union Cover which will save you time and labor on covering pipe unions as well

Prevent Frozen Pipes in the Winter

HOW TO PREVENT YOUR PIPES FROM FREEZING

STEP 1: FIGURE OUT WHICH PIPES ARE SUSCEPTIBLE TO FREEZING

PIPES THAT ARE OUTDOORS ARE THE FIRST TO FREEZE. THESE EXTERIOR PIPES SHOULD BE BURIED UNDERNEATH THE FROST LINE (USUALLY 24 TO 36 INCHES). ALL OTHER EXTERIOR PIPES INCLUDING POOL SUPPLY LINES, WATER SPRINKLER LINES, HOSE BIBS, AND WATER METER LINES, ARE HIGHLY VULNERABLE TO THE CLIMATE.
PIPES THAT ARE INSIDE UNHEATED SPACES SUCH AS CRAWL SPACES, GARAGES, AND EXTERIOR WALLS ARE ALSO PRIME CANDIDATES TO FREEZE.

STEP 2: SHUTOFF ALL WATER SUPPLIES TO THESE VULNERABLE PIPES

PIPES FREEZE BECAUSE THERE IS STANDING WATER IN THE PIPES. THE EASIEST WAY TO STOP THE PIPES FROM FREEZING IS TO TURNOFF THE WATER SUPPLY THAT LEADS TO THESE EXTERIOR PIPES. USUALLY THERE IS A VALVE INSIDE THE BASEMENT WHICH WILL SHUTOFF THE WATER TO THESE PIPES. ONCE THE WATER IS TURNED OFF REMEMBER TO DRAIN THE PIPES BY TURNING ON OUTSIDE VALVES.

STEP 3: INSULATE BOTH HOT AND COLD WATER PIPES

ANY PIPE THAT RUNS NEAR AN EXTERIOR WALL, IN AN UNHEATED BASEMENT OR CRAWL SPACE SHOULD BE INSULATED. REMEMBER, HOT WATER PIPES ARE JUST AS LIKELY TO FREEZE IF THEY ARE UNINSULATED. AT METRO SUPPLY COMPANY WE RECOMMEND FIBERGLASS PIPE INSULATION WITH ASJ JACKETING. FIBERGLASS PIPE INSULATION COMES IN MULTIPLE THICKNESSES FROM 1/2″ TO 2″ THICK. THE THICKER THE INSULATION THE BETTER.

STEP 4: IN EXTREME CLIMATES INSTALL HEAT TAPE UNDER INSULATION

PIPES THAT ARE CONTINUOUSLY EXPOSED TO EXTREME COLD WEATHER SHOULD HAVE HEAT CABLES (AKA HEAT TAPE OR HEAT TRACERS) APPLIED TO IT. HEAT CABLES COME WITH A THERMOSTAT WHICH WILL ENSURE THAT THE PIPE DOES NOT GO BELOW FREEZING. KEEP IN MIND THAT PIPES WITH HEAT TAPE MUST BE INSULATED TO FORCE THE HEAT ON/INTO THE PIPE AND TO CONSERVE ENERGY.
QUICK FIX: DURING EXTREMELY COLD NIGHTS KEEP YOUR FAUCETS SLIGHTLY OPEN TO KEEP A CONSTANT DRIP OF BOTH HOT AND COLD WATER. THIS WILL PREVENT STANDING WATER WHICH IS MORE LIKELY TO FREEZE.

Why Should I Insulate My Pipes?

The main reason to insulate pipes is to limit the transfer of energy (heat) from the contents of the pipe to the air surrounding the pipe. In basic terms, this means not allowing heat from coming into the pipe or letting heat out of the pipe. So if you want to keep a pipe cold, you insulate it to keep hot air from making the pipe warm. And if you want to keep a pipe warm, you insulate it to keep cold air from making the pipe cold.
That is the major reason, but there are many other reasons pipes have to be insulated.

One reason is to prevent the buildup of condensation on the outside of a pipe. When a pipe with cold contents (water or vapors) is surrounded by hot and humid air, condensation will form on the outside of the pipe. On chilled water systems, the condensation may be so great that the pipe may appear to be leaking due to the large amount of condensation runoff! Condensation is not something you do not want, because with those small beads of dew comes the potential for mold growth. Mold inside a basement of a home can lead to health concerns.

Sometimes insulating a pipe may just be for safety concerns. An exposed steam pipe in an apartment or home if left uninsulated can be a potential accident waiting to happen. A child touching a 200 degree steam pipe will be severely burned. By insulating exposed pipes, the surface temperature of the insulation (if insulated with proper thickness) will be the same as the room temperature, eliminating possible burns.

Another important reason to insulate pipes is for frost protection. Pipes that have standing water inside them and are exposed to freezing air temperatures are going to freeze (possibly break). By adding insulation to the pipe, the water inside the pipe will take longer to freeze. By allowing a longer time period until the water freezes, you are more likely to use that pipe and take cold water and bring into the pipe warmer water (starting the freeze cycle again). Another thing people do is add pipe heating cables to exposed pipes to prevent the pipe from freezing.

Childers CP 11 Insulation Mastic

What is Childers CP-11 / CP-10 Vinyl Acrylic Mastic Coating?
CP-11 / CP-10 weather barrier coating is a tough, durable, and fire-resistive water based mastic for most types of thermal insulation and finishing and insulating cements. It is very thixotropic – it looks heavy but spreads easily.  It is available in a variety of standard and special fade resistant colors. It is outdoor rated and U.V. resistant.

When to Use Childers CP11 / CP10 Vinyl Acrylic Mastic Coating?
CP-11 / CP-10 weather barrier coating is unsurpassed for the mechanical protection and weatherproofing of thermal insulations both outdoors and indoors, in hot, cold, and dual-temperature service. However, since it is a ‘breathing’ coating (vapors under pressure will pass through it) it should only be used over insulation in low temperature, or dual-temperature service when the insulation themselves are vapor barriers.
How to Apply CP-11 and CP-10?

Vicryl CP11 and CP10 weather barrier coating is easy to apply by trowel (CP-10), Brush or Heavy Duty Airless Spray (CP-11). Its thixotropic consistency yields a smooth, attractive finish even over rough substrates; it readily fills gaps and imperfections. CP 10 / CP 11 coating should be applied with glass fiber reinforcing mesh.

What Are The Benefits of Using Childers CP Products?
• In the wet state, VI-CRYL CP-10/11 weather barrier coatings is non-flammable. It contains no solvents that will attack insulation or facings.
• The cured film is tough, flexible, and resists most common chemicals and many solvents.
• It is fire-resistive: its flame spread index being within the range of acceptance of government and industrial agencies.

What Certifications and Standards Does CP-11 / CP-10 Meet?
• Meets NFPA Standard 90-A and 90-B 25/50 requirements.
• Qualifies under Coast Guard Specification 164.012.
• Has been tested according to ASTM E-84 (Surface Burning Characteristics of Building Materials).
• Meets requirements for LEED IEQ 4.1 Low-Emitting Materials, Paints and Coatings. VOC: 45 g/l, less water and exempt solvents.

Fyrewrap Elite 1.5 Duct Insulation Fire Blanket

Installation
The FyreWrap Elite 1.5 Duct Insulation consists of a single layer system applied directly on to the duct surface. Only encapsulated blanket should be utilized to ensure the outer surface of the insulation is protected. The insulation system may be installed at zero clearance to combustibles at all locations on the wrap, at material overlaps, and in the field between overlaps. To minimize waste, FyreWrap Elite 1.5 should be rolled out tautly before measuring and making any material cuts. Install insulation with a 3″ minimum overlap on all joints. Seal all cut edges with aluminum foil tape.  The transverse overlap of adjacent blanket may be installed using the following three techniques.


Telescoping Overlap Wrap Technique:
This wrap technique is the most common method of installing FyreWrap Elite 1.5 where each adjacent blanket has one edge exposed and one edge covered by the next blanket, to form a 3″ overlap.
Checkerboard Overlap Wrap Technique:
This installation uses a 3″ overlap pattern with both edges of each alternating blanket covered by each adjacent blanket whose edges are exposed. The overlap joints in alternate layers of blanket resemble a checkerboard pattern in the completed installation. This technique is often utilized when a small section of duct wrap must be repaired
Butt Splice with Collar Wrap Technique:
This wrap technique permits installation with the blanket edges butted together and a 6″ wide collar of blanket that is centered over the butt splice, overlapping each adjacent blanket 3″. The collar can be field fabricated from FyreWrap Elite 1.5 rolls or purchased separately.
Butt Splice with Pins Wrap Technique:
This wrap technique permits the blanket to be installed with 2″ compression joints at all material seams and no material overlaps. This technique is allowed only when pins are used on all sides of the duct to attach the blanket. Pins shall be spaced in 8″ rows and on 8″ centers. The compression joint is made by overlapping the blanket a minimum two inches. The ends of the blanket are then raised to align the edges, then pushed down together so the ends of the two pieces are under compression and butted together. See Figure 2 for additional details.

Vertical Duct Runs
For vertical duct runs, insulation may be applied to the duct in a continuous length parallel to the vertical length of the duct as opposed to wrapping around the duct. All overlaps shall be maintained at a minimum 3″ and are to occur a minimum 6″ from any corner of the duct. Pins spaced a maximum 8″ on center are to be placed at the centerline of all vertically oriented overlaps. Pins may be pre-welded or cup head style pins. See Figure 3 for details.

Attachment Options
Three attachment options are available for installers. Choices are limited by the duct width dimension. Details on each option are provided below.
Banding Only: For Duct Widths 24″ or Less
To temporarily secure the insulation, optional use of filament tape is permitted. Place carbon steel or stainless steel bands (min. 1⁄2″ wide, nom. 0.015″ thick) over joints and within the field between joints, around the wrap. Locate bands 11⁄2″ from each edge of the blanket, centered on the overlap, and on 101⁄2″ centers. Tighten banding to firmly hold the wrap system in place but not so tight as to cut or damage the blanket. Pins are NOT required when this banding technique is used.
Banding and Pins: For Duct Widths ≤ 48″
Weld 12-gauge steel insulation pins to the underside of horizontal runs and backside (side of duct having largest dimension) of vertical runs. Place pins at maximum 12″ rows and on maximum 101⁄2″ centers. To temporarily secure the insulation, optional use of filament tape is permitted. Impale FyreWrap Elite 1.5 over the pins and hold in place with 21⁄2″ square galvanized steel speed clips (washers). Turn down or cut off exposed ends of pins to eliminate safety hazards. Locate carbon steel or stainless steel bands (min. 1⁄2″ wide, nom. 0.015″ thick) 11⁄2″ from each edge of the blanket, centered on the overlap, and on 101⁄2″ centers. Tighten banding to firmly hold the wrap system in place but not so tight as to cut or damage the blanket. Cup head style pins are also permitted and shall be located at the same spacing as pre-welded pins.
Pins Only: For Duct Width > 48″
Weld 12-gauge steel insulation pins on all sides of the duct. Place insulation pins in rows (perpendicular to the length of the duct) spaced maximum 101⁄2″ on center. Pins in each row are maximum 6″ from each duct edge and maximum 8″ on center. Locate insulation overlaps so they are centered on the pins. Impale FyreWrap Elite 1.5 over the pins and hold in place with 21⁄2″ square galvanized steel speed clips (washers) to keep the system from sagging. Turn down or cut off exposed ends of pins to eliminate safety hazards. Cup head style pins are also permitted and shall be located at the same spacing as pre-welded pins. The pin only attachment method can be used for duct widths less than 48″, but is optional.
BUY UNIFRAX FIRE BLANKET INSULATION ONLINE

Encapsulate Asbestos Pipe Insulation with Rewettable Canvas Lag Cloth

To prevent dangerous fibers from entering the air, asbestos pipe is usually concealed (as a substitute to full asbestos removal).  The product most commonly used for concealing asbestos pipe is Re-Wettable Canvas (aka Lag Cloth).  This lag cloth is a canvas that is installed similar to the way wallpaper is installed.  It is dipped in water and wrapped around the pipe insulation.  Once the canvas dries, a hardened shell is developed (similar to a cast).  This shell conceals the fibers and helps protect the pipe insulation from mechanical or physical abuse.
Buy Insulation Products.com sells Re-Wettable Canvas lag cloth by the yard, and the canvas is 5ft wide (60″ x 36″).