HOW TO PREVENT YOUR PIPES FROM FREEZING
STEP 1: FIGURE OUT WHICH PIPES ARE SUSCEPTIBLE TO FREEZING
PIPES THAT ARE OUTDOORS ARE THE FIRST TO FREEZE. THESE EXTERIOR PIPES SHOULD BE BURIED UNDERNEATH THE FROST LINE (USUALLY 24 TO 36 INCHES). ALL OTHER EXTERIOR PIPES INCLUDING POOL SUPPLY LINES, WATER SPRINKLER LINES, HOSE BIBS, AND WATER METER LINES, ARE HIGHLY VULNERABLE TO THE CLIMATE.
PIPES THAT ARE INSIDE UNHEATED SPACES SUCH AS CRAWL SPACES, GARAGES, AND EXTERIOR WALLS ARE ALSO PRIME CANDIDATES TO FREEZE.
STEP 2: SHUTOFF ALL WATER SUPPLIES TO THESE VULNERABLE PIPES
PIPES FREEZE BECAUSE THERE IS STANDING WATER IN THE PIPES. THE EASIEST WAY TO STOP THE PIPES FROM FREEZING IS TO TURNOFF THE WATER SUPPLY THAT LEADS TO THESE EXTERIOR PIPES. USUALLY THERE IS A VALVE INSIDE THE BASEMENT WHICH WILL SHUTOFF THE WATER TO THESE PIPES. ONCE THE WATER IS TURNED OFF REMEMBER TO DRAIN THE PIPES BY TURNING ON OUTSIDE VALVES.
STEP 3: INSULATE BOTH HOT AND COLD WATER PIPES
ANY PIPE THAT RUNS NEAR AN EXTERIOR WALL, IN AN UNHEATED BASEMENT OR CRAWL SPACE SHOULD BE INSULATED. REMEMBER, HOT WATER PIPES ARE JUST AS LIKELY TO FREEZE IF THEY ARE UNINSULATED. AT METRO SUPPLY COMPANY WE RECOMMEND FIBERGLASS PIPE INSULATION WITH ASJ JACKETING. FIBERGLASS PIPE INSULATION COMES IN MULTIPLE THICKNESSES FROM 1/2″ TO 2″ THICK. THE THICKER THE INSULATION THE BETTER.
STEP 4: IN EXTREME CLIMATES INSTALL HEAT TAPE UNDER INSULATION
PIPES THAT ARE CONTINUOUSLY EXPOSED TO EXTREME COLD WEATHER SHOULD HAVE HEAT CABLES (AKA HEAT TAPE OR HEAT TRACERS) APPLIED TO IT. HEAT CABLES COME WITH A THERMOSTAT WHICH WILL ENSURE THAT THE PIPE DOES NOT GO BELOW FREEZING. KEEP IN MIND THAT PIPES WITH HEAT TAPE MUST BE INSULATED TO FORCE THE HEAT ON/INTO THE PIPE AND TO CONSERVE ENERGY.
QUICK FIX: DURING EXTREMELY COLD NIGHTS KEEP YOUR FAUCETS SLIGHTLY OPEN TO KEEP A CONSTANT DRIP OF BOTH HOT AND COLD WATER. THIS WILL PREVENT STANDING WATER WHICH IS MORE LIKELY TO FREEZE.
Thursday, September 29, 2011
Why Should I Insulate My Pipes?
The main reason to insulate pipes is to limit the transfer of energy (heat) from the contents of the pipe to the air surrounding the pipe. In basic terms, this means not allowing heat from coming into the pipe or letting heat out of the pipe. So if you want to keep a pipe cold, you insulate it to keep hot air from making the pipe warm. And if you want to keep a pipe warm, you insulate it to keep cold air from making the pipe cold.
That is the major reason, but there are many other reasons pipes have to be insulated.
One reason is to prevent the buildup of condensation on the outside of a pipe. When a pipe with cold contents (water or vapors) is surrounded by hot and humid air, condensation will form on the outside of the pipe. On chilled water systems, the condensation may be so great that the pipe may appear to be leaking due to the large amount of condensation runoff! Condensation is not something you do not want, because with those small beads of dew comes the potential for mold growth. Mold inside a basement of a home can lead to health concerns.
Sometimes insulating a pipe may just be for safety concerns. An exposed steam pipe in an apartment or home if left uninsulated can be a potential accident waiting to happen. A child touching a 200 degree steam pipe will be severely burned. By insulating exposed pipes, the surface temperature of the insulation (if insulated with proper thickness) will be the same as the room temperature, eliminating possible burns.
Another important reason to insulate pipes is for frost protection. Pipes that have standing water inside them and are exposed to freezing air temperatures are going to freeze (possibly break). By adding insulation to the pipe, the water inside the pipe will take longer to freeze. By allowing a longer time period until the water freezes, you are more likely to use that pipe and take cold water and bring into the pipe warmer water (starting the freeze cycle again). Another thing people do is add pipe heating cables to exposed pipes to prevent the pipe from freezing.
That is the major reason, but there are many other reasons pipes have to be insulated.
One reason is to prevent the buildup of condensation on the outside of a pipe. When a pipe with cold contents (water or vapors) is surrounded by hot and humid air, condensation will form on the outside of the pipe. On chilled water systems, the condensation may be so great that the pipe may appear to be leaking due to the large amount of condensation runoff! Condensation is not something you do not want, because with those small beads of dew comes the potential for mold growth. Mold inside a basement of a home can lead to health concerns.
Sometimes insulating a pipe may just be for safety concerns. An exposed steam pipe in an apartment or home if left uninsulated can be a potential accident waiting to happen. A child touching a 200 degree steam pipe will be severely burned. By insulating exposed pipes, the surface temperature of the insulation (if insulated with proper thickness) will be the same as the room temperature, eliminating possible burns.
Another important reason to insulate pipes is for frost protection. Pipes that have standing water inside them and are exposed to freezing air temperatures are going to freeze (possibly break). By adding insulation to the pipe, the water inside the pipe will take longer to freeze. By allowing a longer time period until the water freezes, you are more likely to use that pipe and take cold water and bring into the pipe warmer water (starting the freeze cycle again). Another thing people do is add pipe heating cables to exposed pipes to prevent the pipe from freezing.
Childers CP 11 Insulation Mastic
What is Childers CP-11 / CP-10 Vinyl Acrylic Mastic Coating?
CP-11 / CP-10 weather barrier coating is a tough, durable, and fire-resistive water based mastic for most types of thermal insulation and finishing and insulating cements. It is very thixotropic – it looks heavy but spreads easily. It is available in a variety of standard and special fade resistant colors. It is outdoor rated and U.V. resistant.
When to Use Childers CP11 / CP10 Vinyl Acrylic Mastic Coating?
CP-11 / CP-10 weather barrier coating is unsurpassed for the mechanical protection and weatherproofing of thermal insulations both outdoors and indoors, in hot, cold, and dual-temperature service. However, since it is a ‘breathing’ coating (vapors under pressure will pass through it) it should only be used over insulation in low temperature, or dual-temperature service when the insulation themselves are vapor barriers.
How to Apply CP-11 and CP-10?
Vicryl CP11 and CP10 weather barrier coating is easy to apply by trowel (CP-10), Brush or Heavy Duty Airless Spray (CP-11). Its thixotropic consistency yields a smooth, attractive finish even over rough substrates; it readily fills gaps and imperfections. CP 10 / CP 11 coating should be applied with glass fiber reinforcing mesh.
What Are The Benefits of Using Childers CP Products?
• In the wet state, VI-CRYL CP-10/11 weather barrier coatings is non-flammable. It contains no solvents that will attack insulation or facings.
• The cured film is tough, flexible, and resists most common chemicals and many solvents.
• It is fire-resistive: its flame spread index being within the range of acceptance of government and industrial agencies.
What Certifications and Standards Does CP-11 / CP-10 Meet?
• Meets NFPA Standard 90-A and 90-B 25/50 requirements.
• Qualifies under Coast Guard Specification 164.012.
• Has been tested according to ASTM E-84 (Surface Burning Characteristics of Building Materials).
• Meets requirements for LEED IEQ 4.1 Low-Emitting Materials, Paints and Coatings. VOC: 45 g/l, less water and exempt solvents.
CP-11 / CP-10 weather barrier coating is a tough, durable, and fire-resistive water based mastic for most types of thermal insulation and finishing and insulating cements. It is very thixotropic – it looks heavy but spreads easily. It is available in a variety of standard and special fade resistant colors. It is outdoor rated and U.V. resistant.
When to Use Childers CP11 / CP10 Vinyl Acrylic Mastic Coating?
CP-11 / CP-10 weather barrier coating is unsurpassed for the mechanical protection and weatherproofing of thermal insulations both outdoors and indoors, in hot, cold, and dual-temperature service. However, since it is a ‘breathing’ coating (vapors under pressure will pass through it) it should only be used over insulation in low temperature, or dual-temperature service when the insulation themselves are vapor barriers.
How to Apply CP-11 and CP-10?
Vicryl CP11 and CP10 weather barrier coating is easy to apply by trowel (CP-10), Brush or Heavy Duty Airless Spray (CP-11). Its thixotropic consistency yields a smooth, attractive finish even over rough substrates; it readily fills gaps and imperfections. CP 10 / CP 11 coating should be applied with glass fiber reinforcing mesh.
What Are The Benefits of Using Childers CP Products?
• In the wet state, VI-CRYL CP-10/11 weather barrier coatings is non-flammable. It contains no solvents that will attack insulation or facings.
• The cured film is tough, flexible, and resists most common chemicals and many solvents.
• It is fire-resistive: its flame spread index being within the range of acceptance of government and industrial agencies.
What Certifications and Standards Does CP-11 / CP-10 Meet?
• Meets NFPA Standard 90-A and 90-B 25/50 requirements.
• Qualifies under Coast Guard Specification 164.012.
• Has been tested according to ASTM E-84 (Surface Burning Characteristics of Building Materials).
• Meets requirements for LEED IEQ 4.1 Low-Emitting Materials, Paints and Coatings. VOC: 45 g/l, less water and exempt solvents.
Fyrewrap Elite 1.5 Duct Insulation Fire Blanket
Installation
The FyreWrap Elite 1.5 Duct Insulation consists of a single layer system applied directly on to the duct surface. Only encapsulated blanket should be utilized to ensure the outer surface of the insulation is protected. The insulation system may be installed at zero clearance to combustibles at all locations on the wrap, at material overlaps, and in the field between overlaps. To minimize waste, FyreWrap Elite 1.5 should be rolled out tautly before measuring and making any material cuts. Install insulation with a 3″ minimum overlap on all joints. Seal all cut edges with aluminum foil tape. The transverse overlap of adjacent blanket may be installed using the following three techniques.
Telescoping Overlap Wrap Technique:
This wrap technique is the most common method of installing FyreWrap Elite 1.5 where each adjacent blanket has one edge exposed and one edge covered by the next blanket, to form a 3″ overlap.
Checkerboard Overlap Wrap Technique:
This installation uses a 3″ overlap pattern with both edges of each alternating blanket covered by each adjacent blanket whose edges are exposed. The overlap joints in alternate layers of blanket resemble a checkerboard pattern in the completed installation. This technique is often utilized when a small section of duct wrap must be repaired
Butt Splice with Collar Wrap Technique:
This wrap technique permits installation with the blanket edges butted together and a 6″ wide collar of blanket that is centered over the butt splice, overlapping each adjacent blanket 3″. The collar can be field fabricated from FyreWrap Elite 1.5 rolls or purchased separately.
Butt Splice with Pins Wrap Technique:
This wrap technique permits the blanket to be installed with 2″ compression joints at all material seams and no material overlaps. This technique is allowed only when pins are used on all sides of the duct to attach the blanket. Pins shall be spaced in 8″ rows and on 8″ centers. The compression joint is made by overlapping the blanket a minimum two inches. The ends of the blanket are then raised to align the edges, then pushed down together so the ends of the two pieces are under compression and butted together. See Figure 2 for additional details.
Vertical Duct Runs
For vertical duct runs, insulation may be applied to the duct in a continuous length parallel to the vertical length of the duct as opposed to wrapping around the duct. All overlaps shall be maintained at a minimum 3″ and are to occur a minimum 6″ from any corner of the duct. Pins spaced a maximum 8″ on center are to be placed at the centerline of all vertically oriented overlaps. Pins may be pre-welded or cup head style pins. See Figure 3 for details.
Attachment Options
Three attachment options are available for installers. Choices are limited by the duct width dimension. Details on each option are provided below.
Banding Only: For Duct Widths 24″ or Less
To temporarily secure the insulation, optional use of filament tape is permitted. Place carbon steel or stainless steel bands (min. 1⁄2″ wide, nom. 0.015″ thick) over joints and within the field between joints, around the wrap. Locate bands 11⁄2″ from each edge of the blanket, centered on the overlap, and on 101⁄2″ centers. Tighten banding to firmly hold the wrap system in place but not so tight as to cut or damage the blanket. Pins are NOT required when this banding technique is used.
Banding and Pins: For Duct Widths ≤ 48″
Weld 12-gauge steel insulation pins to the underside of horizontal runs and backside (side of duct having largest dimension) of vertical runs. Place pins at maximum 12″ rows and on maximum 101⁄2″ centers. To temporarily secure the insulation, optional use of filament tape is permitted. Impale FyreWrap Elite 1.5 over the pins and hold in place with 21⁄2″ square galvanized steel speed clips (washers). Turn down or cut off exposed ends of pins to eliminate safety hazards. Locate carbon steel or stainless steel bands (min. 1⁄2″ wide, nom. 0.015″ thick) 11⁄2″ from each edge of the blanket, centered on the overlap, and on 101⁄2″ centers. Tighten banding to firmly hold the wrap system in place but not so tight as to cut or damage the blanket. Cup head style pins are also permitted and shall be located at the same spacing as pre-welded pins.
Pins Only: For Duct Width > 48″
Weld 12-gauge steel insulation pins on all sides of the duct. Place insulation pins in rows (perpendicular to the length of the duct) spaced maximum 101⁄2″ on center. Pins in each row are maximum 6″ from each duct edge and maximum 8″ on center. Locate insulation overlaps so they are centered on the pins. Impale FyreWrap Elite 1.5 over the pins and hold in place with 21⁄2″ square galvanized steel speed clips (washers) to keep the system from sagging. Turn down or cut off exposed ends of pins to eliminate safety hazards. Cup head style pins are also permitted and shall be located at the same spacing as pre-welded pins. The pin only attachment method can be used for duct widths less than 48″, but is optional.
BUY UNIFRAX FIRE BLANKET INSULATION ONLINE
The FyreWrap Elite 1.5 Duct Insulation consists of a single layer system applied directly on to the duct surface. Only encapsulated blanket should be utilized to ensure the outer surface of the insulation is protected. The insulation system may be installed at zero clearance to combustibles at all locations on the wrap, at material overlaps, and in the field between overlaps. To minimize waste, FyreWrap Elite 1.5 should be rolled out tautly before measuring and making any material cuts. Install insulation with a 3″ minimum overlap on all joints. Seal all cut edges with aluminum foil tape. The transverse overlap of adjacent blanket may be installed using the following three techniques.
Telescoping Overlap Wrap Technique:
This wrap technique is the most common method of installing FyreWrap Elite 1.5 where each adjacent blanket has one edge exposed and one edge covered by the next blanket, to form a 3″ overlap.
Checkerboard Overlap Wrap Technique:
This installation uses a 3″ overlap pattern with both edges of each alternating blanket covered by each adjacent blanket whose edges are exposed. The overlap joints in alternate layers of blanket resemble a checkerboard pattern in the completed installation. This technique is often utilized when a small section of duct wrap must be repaired
Butt Splice with Collar Wrap Technique:
This wrap technique permits installation with the blanket edges butted together and a 6″ wide collar of blanket that is centered over the butt splice, overlapping each adjacent blanket 3″. The collar can be field fabricated from FyreWrap Elite 1.5 rolls or purchased separately.
Butt Splice with Pins Wrap Technique:
This wrap technique permits the blanket to be installed with 2″ compression joints at all material seams and no material overlaps. This technique is allowed only when pins are used on all sides of the duct to attach the blanket. Pins shall be spaced in 8″ rows and on 8″ centers. The compression joint is made by overlapping the blanket a minimum two inches. The ends of the blanket are then raised to align the edges, then pushed down together so the ends of the two pieces are under compression and butted together. See Figure 2 for additional details.
Vertical Duct Runs
For vertical duct runs, insulation may be applied to the duct in a continuous length parallel to the vertical length of the duct as opposed to wrapping around the duct. All overlaps shall be maintained at a minimum 3″ and are to occur a minimum 6″ from any corner of the duct. Pins spaced a maximum 8″ on center are to be placed at the centerline of all vertically oriented overlaps. Pins may be pre-welded or cup head style pins. See Figure 3 for details.
Attachment Options
Three attachment options are available for installers. Choices are limited by the duct width dimension. Details on each option are provided below.
Banding Only: For Duct Widths 24″ or Less
To temporarily secure the insulation, optional use of filament tape is permitted. Place carbon steel or stainless steel bands (min. 1⁄2″ wide, nom. 0.015″ thick) over joints and within the field between joints, around the wrap. Locate bands 11⁄2″ from each edge of the blanket, centered on the overlap, and on 101⁄2″ centers. Tighten banding to firmly hold the wrap system in place but not so tight as to cut or damage the blanket. Pins are NOT required when this banding technique is used.
Banding and Pins: For Duct Widths ≤ 48″
Weld 12-gauge steel insulation pins to the underside of horizontal runs and backside (side of duct having largest dimension) of vertical runs. Place pins at maximum 12″ rows and on maximum 101⁄2″ centers. To temporarily secure the insulation, optional use of filament tape is permitted. Impale FyreWrap Elite 1.5 over the pins and hold in place with 21⁄2″ square galvanized steel speed clips (washers). Turn down or cut off exposed ends of pins to eliminate safety hazards. Locate carbon steel or stainless steel bands (min. 1⁄2″ wide, nom. 0.015″ thick) 11⁄2″ from each edge of the blanket, centered on the overlap, and on 101⁄2″ centers. Tighten banding to firmly hold the wrap system in place but not so tight as to cut or damage the blanket. Cup head style pins are also permitted and shall be located at the same spacing as pre-welded pins.
Pins Only: For Duct Width > 48″
Weld 12-gauge steel insulation pins on all sides of the duct. Place insulation pins in rows (perpendicular to the length of the duct) spaced maximum 101⁄2″ on center. Pins in each row are maximum 6″ from each duct edge and maximum 8″ on center. Locate insulation overlaps so they are centered on the pins. Impale FyreWrap Elite 1.5 over the pins and hold in place with 21⁄2″ square galvanized steel speed clips (washers) to keep the system from sagging. Turn down or cut off exposed ends of pins to eliminate safety hazards. Cup head style pins are also permitted and shall be located at the same spacing as pre-welded pins. The pin only attachment method can be used for duct widths less than 48″, but is optional.
BUY UNIFRAX FIRE BLANKET INSULATION ONLINE
Encapsulate Asbestos Pipe Insulation with Rewettable Canvas Lag Cloth
To prevent dangerous fibers from entering the air, asbestos pipe is usually concealed (as a substitute to full asbestos removal). The product most commonly used for concealing asbestos pipe is Re-Wettable Canvas (aka Lag Cloth). This lag cloth is a canvas that is installed similar to the way wallpaper is installed. It is dipped in water and wrapped around the pipe insulation. Once the canvas dries, a hardened shell is developed (similar to a cast). This shell conceals the fibers and helps protect the pipe insulation from mechanical or physical abuse.
Buy Insulation Products.com sells Re-Wettable Canvas lag cloth by the yard, and the canvas is 5ft wide (60″ x 36″).
Buy Insulation Products.com sells Re-Wettable Canvas lag cloth by the yard, and the canvas is 5ft wide (60″ x 36″).
PVC Jacketing for Clean Look on Insulated Piping
PVC Jacketing is cut and curled to perfectly fit any bare pipe or insulated pipe. The PVC Jacket has a shiny bright white appearance that is easy to wipe clean and prevents water and other elements from ruining the insulation underneath. PVC jacketing can also be ordered in a number of colors besides white, but white is the most commonly used and is the standard for the insulation industry. Ordering PVC jacketing is not like ordering PVC fitting covers (numbers) and the outside diameter in inches is used instead. PVC Jacketing is cut to size and curled to fit snug on the pipe insulation and comes with an adhesive strip that is used to seal the jacketing cover.
Measure Pipe Size for Insulation
One of the most common questions we get is “How do I know what size pipe I have so I can order pipe insulation?”
Easy Answer: Buy a Pipe Caliper
If you purchase a pipe caliper (or pipe guage), your life will be much easier when it comes to insulating your pipes. Using the wrong size pipe insulation is never fun or easy, and it usually results in a bad outcome. To ensure that you buy and install the correct size pipe insulation, you need to know the pipe size.
HOW TO USE THE PIPE CALIPER FROM BUY INSULATION PRODUCTS:
Easy Answer: Buy a Pipe Caliper
If you purchase a pipe caliper (or pipe guage), your life will be much easier when it comes to insulating your pipes. Using the wrong size pipe insulation is never fun or easy, and it usually results in a bad outcome. To ensure that you buy and install the correct size pipe insulation, you need to know the pipe size.
HOW TO USE THE PIPE CALIPER FROM BUY INSULATION PRODUCTS:
- Open the legs of the pipe caliper and place it around the pipe in question
- Push the legs of the pipe caliper closed so that each leg is touching the pipe as well as the mouth of the caliper
- Read the pipe size (it will show Copper sizing (CWT) and Iron sizing (IPS)
- If the pipe is copper use the CWT size, use the IPS for all other pipes.
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| Pipe Caliper Measures Pipe Size |
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